Jun. 26th, 2005

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Today the New York Times travel section had a piece on how global warming is melting Alaska's glaciers. It was a thin piece, particularly obvious to anyone who has ever been to the state more than once. But there was a picture across the middle pages....

My heart is caught in my chest, suspended like a gut on a rollercoaster or tumultuous flight. It is a picture of a place I've never been to, yet the green, glowing against the various shades of graphite - one shade of grey the sky, one shade the rocks- this light I know exceedingly well. This light I see maybe five times a year now; I can count it one hand. The scene is cut with a slash of white and blue, the unique tints of color illuminated by the light refracted in glacial ice.

Like a recovering addict or someone healing from heartache, I count as success the days I've not been homesick. I am both proud and ashamed to say that I haven't thought of Alaska in terms of loss, homesickness or longing in .... maybe over a week. I dream of it from time to time. Like last night, when I dreamt of looking for a place to live in Juneau, marveling at the low prices and new development. I don't know if it was a character in the dream or the narration of my subconcious who commented that I would never be happy living away from Alaska, Juneau specifically.

Like an addict I can keep count of the times I've thought about It. This very morning, even before I opened the NYT, I was looking at Knut Hamsun's In Wonderland, a book about Russia 100 years ago seen through the eyes of a Norwegian Noble Prize winner, and I remembered that I haven't read John Muir's Travels in Alaska. I reminded myself I should read that before reading the travelogues of other lands. Like an addict, I restrict my viewing of porn - Juneau Photos (yes yes, it's my homepage) or the Juneau Empire, my local paper (shockingly, not nearly as awful as the SF Chronicle).

I'm not certain I want this part of me to "heal." Sure, it will make my wandering in the world easier. I know it will make me less tedious in conversation - I won't have an Alaska story or insight for every topic. But I'm not sure all lessons of place or community, the ones that formed who I am, are transferable. I see pictures like the ones in the NYT, I read their print*, and I feel as though I have something unique and special. I was born and raised in Alaska. I can look at a picture of a place I've never been to but recognize as my homeland. Alaska. I can feel the air, smell the glacier, hear the landscape. Just as quickly as my heart leapt, it settles. Back to Berkeley.


*The parting essay in the NYT magazine was by a woman from Anchorage, writing about one of her early hiking trips there. I hate Alaska writing such as this. Give me a break, lady. Mosquitos. Enormous. They beat on your tent like a creature from the unknown. You whined in the rain. Upon your return you counted your mosquito bites with a sort of pride. You've now been in Alaska for over 10 years, aren't you bored with "Alaska writing" like this? So tired, yet sells so well.....

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